Crease and Contour Eyeshadow: Asian Eyes VS Caucasian Eyes

While Caucasians search ‘How to stop eyeshadow from creasing’, Asians typically search ‘How to fake a crease with eyeshadow’.

Before I got more serious into makeup, I only knew I had double eyelids. Crease…what? The only crease I knew was the kind of crease found on a crumpled piece of paper.

But before I start explaining, here’s a little disclaimer. The words ‘Westerner’ and ‘Caucasian’ will be used interchangeably in this post with no intention whatsoever to offend anyone. With ‘Asian’ I refer more specifically to East and Southeast Asians. Western Asians (Middle East) and Southern Asians (Pakistan, India, etc) have anatomical traits more similar to those of Westerners.

OKIE! Let’s start!

When I got more interested in makeup, I started to read beauty blogs and watch videos that went on and on about ‘applying a darker eyeshadow color to your crease to bring more dimension to the eyes.’ I looked at myself in the mirror and searched for the mysterious crease these makeup bloggers were talking about. Is the word ‘crease’ just another moniker for what we Asians refer to as ‘double eyelids’?

It didn’t occur to me, until much later on, that the blogs I was reading and videos I was watching had Western authors that taught the Western way of makeup application. No matter how hard I tried in emulating the way they placed their eyeshadows, I could never achieve the looks they easily demonstrated.

It didn’t occur to me that our bone structures are completely different and even though I have double eyelids, where my crease and contour area lie is very different from a Caucasian’s. Even though it is a matter of mere millimeters more at which the skin folds above the eyelashes, there is a much greater science that explains our differences in genetics.

The Stereotypical Asian Eye

Eye Type Chart #1

I found this picture online showing the types of eyes. Can you guess which is labeled ‘Asian eyes’?

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Guess Guess!

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Did you get it right?

Well, most of my friends didn’t get it right on the first try and some had no clue even after the third guess.

Hello? What does ‘Asian eyes’ mean? I think the Asian eye in this diagram looks very much the same as the rest of the eyes, except for the slight epicanthal fold at the inner corner of the eye and the palpebral slant. Not ALL Asians have epicanthal folds and even Caucasians can have palpebral slants and epicanthal folds too.

By the way, an epicanthal fold is the skin of the upper eyelid that covers the inner corner of the eye. And the palpebral slant is, in layman’s term, the slant of the eye.

The above picture also assumes that all Asians have a crease. Not all Asians have a crease and such eye types are called monolids. Even Asians who have a crease do not have such a thick crease. The one in the picture is considered thicker than the average Asian eyelid.

Hooded eyelid with minimal epicanthal fold

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Monolid with prominent epicanthal fold

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And here’s another eye type chart that conveniently groups all of us into ONE eye type.

Eye Type Chart #2

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Lumping all Asian eyes under one type while displaying many types of the Caucasian eye is tantamount to showing this to a Caucasian.

Types-of-Asian-eyelids.jpg     Types-of-Asian-eyelids_description.png

Where is the Asian contour area then?

Regardless of whether you have a crease or not, your contour area lies above the crease and you CAN apply contour shade even if you have monolids. Some have a more obvious contour area than others as well.

You can try raising your head and looking down to see it. If you still cannot see it, feel it. Use a fluffy eyeshadow brush like the MAC #217 and push the outer corner of the eyelid into the socket. Gently, please. There, my friend, is where you ‘place the darkest shade’ on an Asian eye. =)

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